I’ve got a pace satellite receiver, an AGD Gunn, lm317 bias supply (very crude) and a technomate lnb. Does anyone have any pointers because I have everything setup and I tried scanning the frequencies and Nothing happened... Also does anyone know what terminal is for the Gunn diode on this module?
Merry Christmas

Back pin 7v + and case -

Tec1 87.5fm London wrote: ↑Mon Dec 23, 2019 10:38 am Back pin 7v + and case -

This pin?:

Yes

Tec1 87.5fm London wrote: ↑Thu Dec 26, 2019 7:32 pmYes

Tec1 Do you have the AGD horn with the screw head tuning screw or Allen key tuning screw?

I had all of them

Tec1 87.5fm London wrote: ↑Fri Dec 27, 2019 12:21 pm I had all of them

Are any of them bad for links because there seems to be mixed opinions on them.Also do you know what screw can replace the tuning screw the one on my horn has broken ?I’ve got an Allen key AGD coming in the mail.

Don’t bother with anything other than the AGD horns.

I’ve just gotta get the damn traffic sensor open!

Just opened it! I think this is the one you lot rave about...AGD220?Shall I leave the iris plates in?BTW, anyone who needs to open an AGD sensor the T20 size star screwdriver bit is what you need.

Hi everyone
I’ve built a modulator that’s I’ve checked outputs voltage and I’ve got a satcan wired up ,there is a multiturn pot on tuning pin.I have wound the pot up and down several times and I can’t hear anything through the audio output.I am using the agd horn with the Allen key tuning screw.Maybe I need to turn the pot slower ??? I don’t know I have never tuned up a micro link.Any help would be much appreciated.

You can't use the Pace receiver unmodified. It's looking for a video carrier (and sync pulses) and an offset audio sub-carrier. Have you been inside the Pace receiver? What type is the tunerhead?

I’m not using the pace receiver im using a hitachi tuner

Has anyone else got any advice on setting this up?

Im not using the same modulator as the one at the top of the thread btw.

Bton-FM wrote: ↑Thu Mar 19, 2020 5:40 pm Has anyone else got any advice on setting this up?

Yes. I get a microwave absorption wavemeter and a microwave frequency counter. I then tune the Gunn diode to the frequency I want at its optimum supply voltage (obtainable from the data sheet for the diode). I then tune the cavity for maximum output on the wavemeter....

I then get the LNB connected to the tunerhead, check for the correct voltages for the LNB and the tuner, then vary the tuning voltage on the tuner until I get a fully noise-quietening signal - I usually point both the Gunn head and the LNB at a wall across the workshop - you're less likely to tune to a sprog that way!

Once I have a solid signal, I engage the AFC circuit (it tracks the drifting Gunn diode and also compensates for heating and cooling of the LNB in daylight and at night). I them mark the Gunn waveguide on the transmitter with its parameters, so that the settings are reproducible, and label the tunerhead and the LNB with their settings, too.

I generally find that each particular waveguide type has a preferred frequency of operation. They're all slightly different - maker to maker - but it is perfectly possible to get good quality audio down a link from ANY of the commonly available waveguides. Don't believe the rubbish that some "engineers" have put on this site about "sounds tinny" or "can't get it to sound right". They just didn't bother to read (or couldn't understand) the specifications of the parts they were using.

What trimmer value do people normally use on the tuning pin, I've got a 100k one on mine?

Is it necessary to connect the AGC (automatic gain control) pin?

I did connect it up to drive a signal strength meter on some receivers I did. I got some very cheap "edgewise" little VU meters (for cassette recorders) and relabelled them "Signal Strength". They made the final physical alignment of the receiver really easy because you could just point for maximum signal!

What happens if you connect the afc first?